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ACONCAGUA 07 TRIP
REPORT
Thanks
for reading the trip report postings from Marshall Ulrich's
Stray Dogs climb of Aconcagua via the Polish Glacier Traverse
route. My name is Heather Ulrich, Marshall's wife, reporting
to you from here at home in Colorado.
For
additional trip reports, in pariticular audio postings, visit
David Ferris' sitw, The
Ferris FIles.
Terri
Schneider also has postings on her blog
site.
I
just spoke with Marshall who reported that the team is back
in Mendoza. In a hotel. With real beds, toilets, and showers!
“After 16 days on the mountain. Whew! I forgot how nice it
is it to have such simple luxuries.” Yep! Things we take for
granted everyday, including being able to turn on the faucet
and have clean water to drink. Those are some of the things
you come to appreciate after climbing a mountain.
Marshall
and I briefly discussed the problems on summit day, most notably
Frank, Demetri, and David being left alone for almost three
hours almost immediately after leaving Camp 2. Marshall confirmed
that this certainly was not the plan. The
local guiding company that Marshall hired had three guides,
one for every three clients, which played out like this at
the start of summit day:
- Louise,
Nancy, and Fabrice with Pincho;
- Terri
and Marshall with Peke (for the beginning of the climb);
and
- Frank,
Demetri, and David were to be climbing with Goudy.
Certainly
there were enough guides to cover the group, had everyone
done their job.
Marshall
confirmed that Goudy was absolutely assigned to the
sweep position, and never, never should have left
the clients alone on the mountain… certainly for not such
an extended period. Reportedly, during the three hours that
Frank, Demetri, and David were climbing on their own, Pincho,
the lead guide, had even radioed back to Goudy to check on
the rest of the group, and Goudy reported that all was well.
Hmmm….
As
David explained in his audio postings on The
Ferris FIles, (and
Marshall confirmed with me today) Goudy did return to him/them
occasionally, but did not provide any encouragement or guidance;
he only told them they were moving too slowly and set time
deadlines for the next geographic/geologic goal. After some
time, Demetri simply moved forward on his own, as Frank also
decided to do in order to make the necessary “cut off"
times. Because Marshall was guiding and taking care of Terri,
Peke descended to check on Demetri (who was moving strongly
up the mountain) and then “picked up” Frank and accompanied
him to the summit.
Marshall
confirmed that Louise, Nancy, and Fabrice, guided by Pincho,
did reach the summit at about 2 p.m. (“Those women are so
[adjective here] strong!” Marshall said, “There is nothing
to Nancy, but she is unbelievable!)
Marshall
got Terri to the summit about an hour later, at 3 p.m.
Marshall
thought that Demetri was about 15 behind them, with Frank
and Peke only another 15 minutes behind Demetri, meaning that
they reached the summit at about 3:30 p.m.
Marshall
reported that Goudy did finally descend to where David was,
and that he did guide David back down to Camp 2. With the
difficulties that David was having (on summit day, and prior
to that) it is possible that he may not have been able to
summit, but certainly the guiding situation was not what it
should have been.
While
Goudy has reportedly been guiding for 8 years, Marshall said
that he “just doesn't get it.” Marshall had to end our phone
conversation as one of the important things he had to do was
meet with Pincho (along with David and, perhaps Frank – who
was not pleased with being left without a guide for part of
day, either; and rightfully so!) to discuss… “What happened
to Goudy?” Marshall said that Pincho and Peke were awesome,
but certainly something fell apart with the plan of Goudy
doing sweep and watching over the climbers at the back of
the group.
Fortunately,
everyone is safe and sound!
I
heard from Marshall this morning as he called from the satellite
phone at base camp. He reported that everyone was doing well.
He said that they planned to hike out to the trailhead, Puente
del Inca, today, thus possibly skipping the stop at the Pampa
de Lenas camp. I can understand their desire to get to the
trailhead camp, as there the team should be able to sleep
in beds at the hostel and eat a good meal at the restaurant
(see the January 11 posting for information about when the
team first arrived at Puente del Inca). If, in fact, they
made it so Puenta del Inca today, the team should return to
Mendoza on January 27, one day ahead of schedule.
There
are additional posting on
The Ferris FIles
about the team's victorious summit climb, as well as David's
summit attempt.
As
a summary, on January 24th the team left Camp 2 at about 5:30
a.m.
The
first group - Louise, Nancy, and Fabrice, with lead guide
Pincho, reached the summit at about 2 p.m.
Marshall
lead Terri to the summit, with Demetri just minutes behind,
about an hour later, at 3:00and 3:15 p.m.
Finally,
at about 3:30 Frank, with local guide Peke, arrived at the
summit.
David
aborted his summit attempt at about 2 p.m. at approximately
21,000 feet with some assistance from the local guide, Goudy
(I will need to get more of this story from Marshall after
he returns).
It
was about 10° F
with a slight breeze at the summit. Apparently there were
about 50 people - and one dog (yes, a dog!)
- that reached the summit that day.
After the required celebrations and photographs were taken,
the team left the summit at about 4 p.m., and everyone
was safely back at Camp 2 by around 7 p.m. Talk about a negative
split! 8.5 to 10.25 hours up, and only 3 hours down. Wow!
Strong folks with sure, downhill footing. I guess all of that
ultra running, mostly on trails, and adventure racing really
paid off!
Thank
you again for checking in on the Stray Dogs climb of Aconcagua.
I know the team looks forward to returning to Mendoza, reconnecting
with family and friends, and finally returning to the States...
and the comforts of home!
First,
a correction. According to a posting this morning on
The Ferris FIles,
David did not reach the summit yesterday, but the rest of
the team did. My apologies for misreporting that information
yesterday. Unfortunately, I guess short satellite phone calls
are not the most reliable form of communication. David did
say that his "mind and body are intact" and said
that he and the rest of the team did make it, safe and sound,
to Camp 2 after reaching the summit on January 24. He did
not provide any additional information, but promised more
of the story in a later postings.
Marshall
did call from base camp (Camp Argentina) the night of January
25 but we almost immediately got cut off. However, it was
good to know that they had arrived safely at base camp. David
reported that it took the team about 5 hours to descend from
Camp 2 at 19,000 feet to base camp at 16,240 feet.
Once
again, my sincere apologies for the mistake in reporting that
"all" of the Stray Dogs reached the 22,841-foot
summit of Aconcagua yesterday. Marshall, Louise, Nancy, Terri,
Frank, Fabrice, and Demetri all DID summit. Most importantly,
all are safe and sound.
As
I posted on the 23rd, I believe very strongly that any
mountaineering trip that you return from is a success. And,
Ed Viesturs definitely knows that "Reaching the summit
is optional. Getting down is mandatory." My sincere congratulations
to David for making what I'm sure was very difficult decision,
but the right one for him. I know that Marshall is
proud of each and every member of the team for their individual
efforts, strengths, and decisions.
Marshall
will be pleased, for example, that Rich Shear called me from
Wellsville, NY last night (he's been trying to reach me for
awhile). When Rich was preparing to depart, Marshall asked
him to check in with me when he returned to the States. A
promise is a promise, and I can report "mission accomplished
for Rich!"
Certainly
each and every member of the Stray Dogs is a success!
For
information on how to donate the Sisters,
see the end of January 24th posting,
" Saint Lucy's Message," below.
Most
of the Stray Dogs made it to the 22,841-foot summit of Aconcagua
today!
I
heard from Marshall very briefly via satellite phone
from the summit at about noon Colorado time. He was
thrilled to report that Louise, Nancy, Terri, Fabrice, and
Demetri were with him on the summit, with Frank just minutes
away in the company of one of the local guides. (See January
25th posting for an update from David). Marshall said that
the weather was beautiful... and it was calm! After waiting
out two days of wind at Camp 2 - and traveling to Camp 2 in
quite windy conditions - the weather finally changed, giving
them a safe and beautiful summit day.
Everyone
is safe and doing well. They will be descending this afternoon
back to Camp 2, then will return to base camp (Camp Argentina)
tomorrow.
What
an amazing group! Their patience and continued strength carried
them to the top, and I'm sure will see them all safely home.
Now
members of the team can say that they have climbed another
of the Seven Summits, the highest peak in South America and,
in fact, the highest peak in the western hemisphere/the highest
peak outside of the Himalayas.
I
know that Marshall is proud of, and so happy for, each and
every member of the team - dear friends all. Marshall has
accomplished much in his life, and now is pleased to be able
to help, in whatever ways he can, others achieve their dreams.
After
reaching the summit, or making the attempt, the entire team
returned safely to Camp 2 at about 7 p.m..... and, I'm sure,
got some of the best sleep they've had in weeks!
Saint
Lucy's Message
As
most of you know, Marshall does fundraising for the Religious
Teacher's Filippini whose mission is to “Go and Teach.” This
organization of Sisters was founded by Saint Lucy Filippini,
who said, "As for me, I long to be present in every corner
of the earth..."
Marshall
has taken Saint Lucy's message to many, many corners of the
earth – including the summit of Mount Everest – by carrying
a special banner (see the Everest Summit photo below). Now,
as I wrote to Sister Mary Beth, Mission Director for the Sisters:
Certainly
your prayers for Marshall and the team have (once again!
:) helped, as
I heard from Marshall a couple of hours ago from the summit
of Aconcagua . So… the banner (which he did not have the
first time he reached this particular summit in Feb 2003)
and St. Lucy's message has now been to the top of South
America! Lucy is getting to “every corner of the earth”
… one step at a time!
To
learn more about the Sisters' work and Marshall's fundraising
efforts, go to the Fundraising
page. If you'd like to make a donation now,
you can send a check, payable to the Religious Teachers Filippini
Mission Fund to:
As
always, one hundred percent of your donation
will go to the deserving women and children! Not very many
charities can promise that - and it's tax deductible.
Pemba
Tenzing Sherpa and Marshall Ulrich with the
Religious Teachers Filippini banner on the
summit of Mount Everest, May 25, 2004.
Summit
Attempt?
David
reported at 8:30 p.m. last night that their hopes were lifted
by the forecasts, which are now in agreement, and call for
15 mph winds and temperatures in the morning, on the summit,
of 5° F with partly cloudy skies. As David said, “That
may not sound particularly comfy, but it's pretty good by
Aconcagua standards and far better than what we've had in
the last few days.” So, if the forecasts are correct, the
Stray Dogs may be making their summit today!
David
said that they are “excited, scared, and intimidated about
the ordeal to come, especially considering we get out of breath
walking from one tent to another; and (Wednesday/today) we
hope to climb over 3,800 feet to 22,841 feet, the highest
most of us have ever climbed. If all goes well, we should
leave by 5 a.m. and summit by 1 p.m.” With the time
difference between Colorado and Aconcagua in Argentina, that
would put the possible summit at about 9 a.m. MDT. Right about…
now (as I'm posting this). I will, of course, update this
site as soon as I can when I hear any news.
David
once again sent his love to his parents, his family, and Anjali–
and I know that the rest of the team sends their love and
thanks to all of that support them. It looks like all of your
up uplifting thoughts, prayers for calmer weather, and love
and support for the members of the Stray Dogs *may* have paid
off. Of course, any mountaineering trip that our loved ones
return from is a success. The patience, strength, and will
of all of the members of the team is certainly to be admired!
My
note to David's family, regarding the clearing of his throat
during the last post. That sounded pretty familiar, too, as
it is very common at high altitude due to the cold, dry air.
Once the team is able to summit (hopefully!) and return to
lower altitudes, that cough will clear up, I'm certain!
Route
Map
Thanks
to David for posting this map of their route on the The
Ferris FIles.
The
Polish Glacier Traverse route up Aconcagua from Camp 2 to
the summit.
Due
to continued high winds, the Stray Dogs are still hunkered
down at Camp 2 at 19,000 feet at the base of the Polish Glacier
on Mount Aconcagua .
David
reports on The Ferris Files that they had another sleepless
night, sometimes listening to the wind starting in the west,
from the glaciers, then ramming into the tent like a gunshot.
With the wind shaking the tent, and the anticipation of whether
or not a summit attempt would be forthcoming, there was no
sleep until Martin, one of their guides, came around camp
at 4:30 a.m. saying that they would “wait one more day.” And,
one more day is all they have, as Wednesday the 24th is their
last summit contingency day. If the weather doesn't break/the
wind doesn't die down, the Stray Dogs will have to pack up
tomorrow and head down the mountain to base camp (Camp Argentina
) instead of to the summit. Once the “no go” decision was
made, David said that he and Terri were able to get some sleep,
but had “vivid dreams.”
Yet
again these reports trigger various memories for me, some
a bit troubling. David's description of hearing the wind coming,
then ramming into the tent like a gunshot brings back memories
of being trapped in an overturned boat in the Bering Sea on
January 29, 1990, listening helplessly as wave after wave
gathered strength and then slammed into the boat; sounding
like a freight train, and having the force of train as well.
Mother Nature typically takes care of us, but can unleash
her wrath as well, and we have no power to stop her. Similarly,
sleep usually brings us rest, but those vivid dreams can invade
the peace – as Marshall reported from Mount Everest (see the
Fanciful Dream posting below.. and note that Marshall had
mentioned my boating accident... interesting...). Maybe I
am only building these connections in my mind as a way of
trying to stay connected to Marshall and the others on the
mountain. Or, perhaps, these connections are a simple testimony
to how similar we all are in our thoughts, and our feelings
– our responses to challenging situations. We are all more
alike than we think… yet each of us unique.
But…
back to the mountain!
David
said that they awoke to find the physical conditions they
have been experiencing getting slowly worse: lethargy, chapped
lips and noses from the dry air, wind burn, swollen hands,
and morning headaches. They were glad when, at about 10 a.m.,
the wind finally abated, and they were able to get out of
their tents for an extended period of time for the first time
in a day-and-a-half. Time to visit with each other, stand
in the sun, see the stunning glaciers all around them, take
some photos, and note the spin drifts coming off the glacier
about 1,000 feet above them, indicating winds of 50 to 60
mph. Good thing they were still in camp!
The
team has contradictory forecasts for tomorrow. The park rangers
are saying the conditions will be worse tomorrow, while a
climbing Web site (accessed by a friend of Terri's who is
passing the information along) is saying that conditions should
be a bit better. Pray for calmer weather for the Stray Dogs!
Terri
reports that, “Tent life at 19,000 feet is getting quite interesting.
David and I have taken to videotaping some of our tent idiosyncrasies.”
Those movies will be interesting to watch… IF they let anyone
see them after they're off the mountain. I can only imagine
the level of silliness. Terri also repots that, “We're all
quite tired from doing nothing for so long.” Remember… this
is a group of ultra runners and adventure racers – turned
mountaineers – so they are used to being on the go, go, go.
Marshall has always said, since first summitting Denali in
June 2002 (the first of his Seven Summits, which he completed
in March 2005) that patience is, perhaps, the hardest part
of mountaineering… at least for people that can't sit still
like him… and Louise… and Terri… and…
Terri
also reports that, “We're hoping tomorrow is our lucky day.
Wish us luck!” And, I know that you will all do just that.
Fanciful
Dream
Last
night before I went to bed I looked up at the sky. The moon's
reflection on Mount Everest lit it up, making it dominate
the horizon. The stars and planets speckled the sky as if
in an artificial planetarium. As I snuggled into my sleeping
bag for the night I stared at the yellow dome that formed
the canopy ceiling and fell fast asleep. I was awoken by a
dream that I had about being in an elevator that operated
within the Statue of Liberty. I was the only one in the elevator
and, as it started up to the top, it rose extremely fast,
pressing my feet squarely to the floor and intensifying my
weight tenfold.
\It
came to a sudden stop and opened in the Denver International
Airport . There, my wife and a few close friends were waiting
to greet me as if I had just gotten off of a plane. I felt
confused and wondered why they were all greeting me and why
they were all so happy. I continued to be confused, not wanting
to ask whether or not I had summited Mount Everest and if
that was what this was all about. Nothing was said about climbing
the mountain, and I was afraid to ask until everyone left
when I turned to my wife, Heather, and asked if I had made
the summit. She looked at me strangely and replied, “Well
of course you did.” That's when I awoke; again staring at
the tent ceiling, wanting to believe that it was all true.
These
are the type of fanciful dreams that happen at altitude. Trying
to make something out of these dreams is pointless. I am just
thankful that, most of the time, I have the more benign dreams
as I described. I look at it as affirmative programming.
The
rest of the night was spent tossing and turning, and thinking.
About the mysteries of life such as "why are we here?"
and thinking about those that are most important in my life,
including my wife and children. My oldest child, Elaine, thinks
that this (attempting Everest) is the one most selfish things
that I have ever done, and she may be right. One can justify
almost anything in their mind, as I attempt to justify being
here on Everest. Perhaps because of the loss of my first wife
Jean (Elaine's mother) when Elaine was three, I understand
that every day is a gift. We don't know when our life will
cease to exist. Maybe being here on Everest is part of my
attempt to make the most of the time I do have? I can say
that it is not fair to squander life by "sweating the
small stuff."
In
January 1990 my wife was involved in an accident in the Bering
Sea near Adak , Alaska , while working as a volunteer with
the US Fish & Wildlife Service. She was in a boat with
three others and was caught out to sea in a storm. The boat
capsized, and one person made it to shore (although they did
not know it at the time) leaving three people, including my
wife, trapped in the overturned boat. The other two people
died during the night, but Heather survived. Her gratitude
for living is now profound. And somehow, on some level, she
understands why it is that I am climbing this mountain.
Clarity.
We are always seeking clarity in our lives. That is what keeps
us alive, the discovery process—it does not destroy us; rather,
it defines who we are.
Two
weeks ago on the way to Everest I was stopped in the village
called Xegar by a young man. He was holding a rock about five
inches in diameter that was cracked around the outside. It
looked like any other rock but, when he opened it up, what
was revealed inside was a fossil snail-like creature frozen
in time. Tibet , after all, was at one time under water and
the fossil came from that time long ago.
We
are as that fossil frozen in time, here for a finite fraction
of time. That shell that encompassed the fossil for possibly
millions of years represents our fears which paralyze us,
holding us steady, starving us of spiritual and intellectual
growth. We have no way of knowing what tomorrow may bring,
but owe it to ourselves and those around us to make the most
of the precious time that we have here and now. Better not
to fear the inevitable.
The
day is almost gone now and I now have the opportunity to retrace
my steps up the trail that leads to Mount Everest and ABC.
So, now I must pack and tomorrow will bring that new day that
may bring me closer to that clarity that we all seek.
Luck
and Success
One
closing thought: I always knew that Marshall was incredibly
lucky to have completed each of the Seven Summits on his first
attempt. This weather delay on Aconcagua brings that point
home ever more clearly.
More
importantly, I know that any mountaineering trip that you
return from is a success. In fact, Ed Viesturs - the only
American who has climbed all 14 of the world's 8,000 meter
(26,240 ft.) peaks without oxygen, and one of only twelve
climbers in the world to accomplish this feat - lives by a
simple rule: "Reaching the summit is optional. Getting
down is mandatory."
Here's to success for the Stray
Dogs!
Due
to high winds, the team is hunkered down at Camp 2. Summit
contingency days are Tues and Wed (the 23rd and 24th), so
here's hoping for calmer weather!
Both
David and Terri had postings on their sites, summarized here.
David
- Wind and Waiting
"The
mountain huffed and puffed and tried to blow our tents down
last night. It was like having someone punch your pillow every
few seconds while the room around you shakes for hours on
end.”
That's
how David described the winds during the night of the 21/22
at Camp 2 on Aconcagua . Luckily, because their tents are
securely tied down to rocks, the wind failed. But, I'm certain
the reports of little or no sleep have to be true! Could you
sleep in those conditions? For those of you who have slept
in tents in high winds, you also know how LOUD it is… not
only the wind, but the continuous flapping of the tent fabric
and fly. Restless nights, and days, for certain.
At
about 4 a.m. the guides notified the Stray Dogs that there
would not be a summit attempt today
as, “it is almost impossible to hike” in such strong winds.
I
think back to Marshall reporting that, the morning of summit
day on Mount Vinson in Antarctica , temperatures were 20 below,
with a 53 mph headwind, making the wind chill minus 75! Burrrr
doesn't even begin to describe it and... it makes me wonder…
how did they ever do it? Or, maybe more importantly, why did
they ever do it? Ha!
Seriously,
it was certainly a smart decision to wait out the day. As
David said, the wind is “not a reason to scuttle the trip…
we will wait it out.” Of course, waiting… and waiting some
more… can take a toll. David said that when he would venture
out of the tent, he was
often blinded by blowing snow. But, he was able to see a falcon
flying low over the camp (what a marvel of nature… a creature
that can still fly in 50 mph winds!) which was quite exciting
for him as there is not much wildlife that high on the mountain.
The
Stray Dogs did have a party in David and Terri's tent with
Marshall, Louise, Frank, and Nancy, the guest of honor, as
it was her 50th birthday. David and Terri presented Nancy
with a block of energy gel with a match stuck in it. “At 19,000
feet, that passes for frills.” Happy birthday, Nancy! While
I know you would have rather celebrated at the summit, I also
know that you couldn't spend the day with a better group of
people.
So,
the weather Tuesday is supposed be a bit calmer (*only* 30
mph winds) with temperatures in the pre-sunrise darkness possibly
as low as -20° F. The skies have been clear, so if the
winds are calm enough for safe travel, the team may be making
their bid for the summit on Tuesday
Let's hope that the “endless, endless
wind” does have an end for the Stray Dogs!
Terri
- Tough and Determined Women in an Amazing Group
I
just read a new postings on Terri's blog site that the team
did not make a summit attempt today due to high winds – up
to 55 mph. Terri said, “We are not safe going higher on the
mountain so we're hunkering down at Camp 2.” Sounds like a
smart decision!
The
team has two summit contingency days, and Terri said that
the weather is supposed to improve over the next couple of
days, so hopefully they will be able to summit tomorrow or
on Wednesday the 24th. Terri said “most of us are determined
to give this our best shot so hopefully I'll have some good
news for you in the next day or so.”
With
winds up to 55 mph during the night, the team didn't get much
sleep, wondering whether the tent would still be standing
come morning. Terri also reports that there is “enough snow
and spindrift to make going outside to the bathroom quite
an ordeal.” I can imagine.
Terri
took this opportunity to provide an update on the team:
One
of our teammates, Nancy, has her 50th birthday today and we
were hoping to celebrate from the summit but we'll have to
make due here at camp two. I feel fortunate to be in the company
of some pretty amazing people on this climb. Marshall Ulrich
organized the core of our group. His ultrarunning, adventure
racing and climbing experience has been invaluable. There
are three women on our trip - myself, Louise Cooper (53) and
Nancy Bristow (turning 50 today). We all know Marshall through
racing and I must say we are a pretty tough and determined
contingent of women. David Ferris (37) is also a very good
friend of mine and my current tent mate. David has a similar
background in sports and is also posting daily audio posts
on The Ferris Files.
Frank, in addition to Marshall, is also an ultrarunner. Demetri
is from Russia, currently living in the States. Fabrice, from
Paris, is also currently living in New York City. We have
a strong evenly matched group which makes climbing together
thoroughly enjoyable.
Let's
hope for good weather, with a lot less wind, for Team Stray
Dogs and a safe summit attempt for them in the next day or
two. Thanks again for checking in!
David
reported on
The Ferris FIles
that the team has arrived
safely at Camp 2 at 19,000 feet at the base of the Polish
Glacier on Aconcagua. They have a “tremendous view of glaciers
and peaks to the east” - just a taste of what they should
be able to see from the summit. They can also see “spindrifts
of snow blowing off the Polish Glacier directly to the west”
and the first part of their route: a trail the winds up along
the side of the glacier.
It
was windy during their estimated 5 hour climb (David did not
say how long it took) up 2,760 feet from Camp 1 at 16,240
feet, with some “50 mph gusts that nearly knocked us over.”
Once again, David reported that the climb was very hard and,
after it was over, it “took several hours for me to be able
to anything but drink soup and stare into space.” Sitting
in the tent with his down jacket on and his legs in his down
bag, David said he was pretty warm, guessing that the temperature
outside was about 20° F, and about 35° F in the tent.
The
forecast is for more wind tomorrow; once again with gusts
possibly up to 50 mph. If the wind is too high, it will be
too cold and dangerous for the team to make a summit attempt,
and they will have to wait a day. In fact, there are two summit
contingency days, the 23rd and the 24th.
If
the weather is acceptable, the team will awake at 3:30 a.m.
for a 5:00 a.m. departure. They will wear all of their warmest
gear as well as mountaineering boots and crampons, as some
of the route will be on snow. The will take only summit packs
(like a day pack) with some food, camera, and water (bottles
will be insulated, and may be carried inside their coats to
keep the water from freezing). The climb up is anticipated
to take about 8 hours, with the pre-sunrise hours certainly
the coldest.
David
said that “the excitement of the summit eludes me” and that
instead he is aware of how difficult it will be. In addition,
Anjali, David's girlfriend, wrote a post about a brief conversation
that she had with David after the team arrived at Camp 2.
Anjali said that David simply reported, “Um, I guess we'll
summit tomorrow,” and that she sensed loneliness and dejection
in his voice.
Once
again, these reports feel all too familiar to me, as I think
Marshall suffered some of his most serious personal doubts
when attempting to summit Mount Everest (see the “Insecurities
and Doubts posting from Everest, below). The
mountains– the altitude, the steepness, the weather, the cold,
the wind, as well as their immenseness – takes a toll not
only on the human body, but on the human spirit.
I
think every mountaineer – or every smart mountaineer – always
has insecurities and doubts. What is it they say? Bravery
isn't the absence of fear, but moving ahead in spite of your
fear. A healthy respect for the mountain is a good thing.
When Marshall was actually able to summit Mount Everest, he
was overcome with a sense of gratitude; in
part a gratitude to the mountain for granting him safe passage.
I know that, for the Stray Dogs, knowing that there are those
of you back home, taking the time to keep up with their quest
and sending “uplifting thoughts” to each and every member
of team, will help to see them through.
Thank
you for your thoughts and prayers for the Stray Dogs.
Now..
on to the summit - and safe returns home.
Insecurities
and Doubts
I
have one more day, Sunday, to rest before we go back to base
camp and start thinking about the summit attempt on Everest.
Not that it hasn't been ever present on my mind! My sickness
seems to have left (dodged a bullet there), and I am feeling
more and more rested. I didn't even get up until about 9:00
this morning after sleeping about 10 hours.
Still
I have great insecurities and doubts about whether or not
I can actually get to the top of Mound Everest. David and
I hitch hiked to Xegar again today and we hiked to the top
of the mountain above town, which is over a thousand foot
climb. It felt pretty good, but I guess I was expecting it
to be easy. So the mind games continue. Questions such as:
am I recovered, do I feel strong, will I be able to perform
at altitude, and on and on. How does one shut the mind off?
I think the answers will unfold as we go along and, more than
anything, I need to be accepting of myself, know my limitations,
and not talk myself out of anything. Ultimately all I have
to do the best that I can…with safety being my top concern.
One
thing is for sure, when Heather (my wife) and her father arrive
at base camp it will be like a big security blanket for me.
This time away from her has pointed out to me how much I love
and depend on her. After my kids and my wife, everything else
pales. At any rate, I know that she probably worries that
she will be a distraction; but quite the opposite, she will
be a very motivating factor helping me up the mountain with
every breath I take (no matter how thin the air is). What
a wonderful feeling it is to have someone love me unconditionally.
It brings tears to my eyes when I think about it.
The
other thing that I am eternally grateful for is the support
that I have gotten from home from so many of you. Heather
keeps me up on all that is happening, and sends along all
of your messages letting me know that you are thinking for
me and wishing me well…as well as your support for the children
we are trying to help. That is another factor that makes it
all worthwhile.
So,
while I am sitting in that tent, claustrophobic and wanting
to scream, I will think about everyone, and that will be the
calming factor that will see me through!
Too
Much Time on Our Hands
David
provided another posting about their rest day at Camp 1, including
some weather information. He said they had clear skies and
that the clear weather was predicted to hold for the next
couple of days. However, they are also predicting high winds
at the higher elevations which will certainly make their summit
day colder but, hopefully, doable (and safe). So, tomorrow
they should be able to move to Camp 2 at 19,000 feet, and
hopefully on to the summit on Monday, January 22, 2007.
In
a health update, David said he and three others (he didn't
say who) were having some problems with diarrhea. They met
in Marshall's tent and discussed which medicines they might
take to deal with this situation (Marshall, who has spoken
at the Wilderness Medicine Conferences has diligently researched
the appropriate treatments and has medicines available for
members of groups that he is leading). Hopefully they struck
on the right treatments for everyone. In addition, some members
of the team are feeling the effects of altitude, which is
certainly common: lack of appetite and, for Demetri, a bloody
nose.
Despite
the clear skies, due to the cold and wind, going outside to
do anything is a major decision, and everything is done slowly.
This, of course, is also due in part to the affects of altitude.
They are trying to stay interested in their books and other
distractions, but they have been in their tent with “too much
time” on their hands.
These
reports of tent claustrophobia are familiar ones to me, as
Marshall often wrote about them during his over 40 days at
the various camps on Mount Everest, waiting out storms or
biding time until they could move to the next camp. Here are
just a few tidbits…
Cold,
Lonely, Confining and Desolate
So,
as I head back to my tent, I am painfully aware of the night
temperatures being 15 to 25 degrees colder than below at 17,160-foot
BC. The tent is just as I left it a few days before: cold,
lonely, confining, and desolate. I slip into my bag, hoping
that I will be blessed with sleep that has, once again, eluded
me the past couple of days. In many ways, I am almost afraid
to fall into a deep sleep as surrealistic frightening dreams
are the double edged sword that I must deal with as a consequence.
Big
Droopy Blood Hound Eyes
We
tend to look for someone to blame for our misfortunes in life.
So we voice our opinions, and later realize that possibly,
just possibly, we should have "bit our tongue."
It is kind of like sitting in the tent looking at one another,
our faces drawn, with, as Alex would describe, "those
big droopy blood hound eyes" that come from no sleep
and high altitude. In my younger years I would probably have
said something to someone about how they look. Now, I look
around with empathy knowing that I look just as bad, or maybe
worse. It is easy to laugh at others inappropriately and disregard
ourselves, thinking that we couldn't possibly be like, or
look like, that, etc. etc. Once again, a look in the mirror
may reveal a lesson in humility.
Claustrophobia
and Suffocation
One
of the things that drives me nuts is having to stay in a tent,
day after day. It gives me a feeling of claustrophobia and
a sensation – especially being at high altitudes – of being
suffocated. There have been times when, in the middle of the
night, I just wanted to pack up and leave. Of course, this
was totally unrealistic and impossible. I mean, really. Where
would I go?
Louise
and David
Good
news! After doing the "No Worries" posting (see
below) I went back to the The
Ferris FIles and... there were
two postings, one from Louise and one from David directly
specifically at his students and clients. So, Steve must have
figured out how to retreive and post the audio files even
while in Tahoe. THANK YOU Steve!
Louise
reported what I somewhat expected: that the day was spent
"spectulating, planning, and anticipating" their
move to Camp 2 tomorrow followed by their summit attempt.
She reported sunny weather and said that the area around the
camp was very pristine despite the number of climbers that
pass through, which speaks well of the individual climbers
and the guiding companies that assist climbers on Aconcagua
(remember that helicopter that took out trash on January 18th?).
Louise said that yesterday was "a heinous slog"
up to Camp 2 to drop off group and individual gear that they
will need for their move there tomorrow, somewhat echoing
David's report of it being one of the most difficult things
he has done. Of course, the carry to Camp 2 was also a part
of their acclimation process - climb high, sleep low (or,
at least, lower - at 16,200 feet!). Louise said that "we're
all feeling strong" and that they are "eagerly anticipating"
moving further up the mountain. Yes... anticipation seems
to be a common emotion.
Apparently
food on the mountain is quite good, as Louise mentioned something
about bread, artichoke hearts, palm hearts, and... I think
I heard her correctly... wine. Wine? At over 16,000 feet.
Hmmmm... hard to imagine. But, apparently they had carried
that all up the mountain; however, Louise said that, had she
known, she may have thrown out a bottle or two on the way
up. I think her adventure racing past (Marshall and Louise
raced together in Eco Challenge Patagonia back in 1999) that
contributes to her desire to travel as lightly as possible!
Certainly I've seen it in Marshall, even cutting an inch or
two of extra straps on his pack. Louise said that all of her
high tech gear has, in some ways, just become "stuff"
to organize and reorganize. Something about her Virgo attributes
that drive her towards anal organization? Luckily, her tent
mate (Nancy, I think) tolerates it all with "raised eyebrows
and an occasional shake of the head and a deep sigh."
David
had a special message for his students and clients noted that
certainly the next 6,600 feet to the summit will be "cold
and hard, and I will struggle." But he was certain of
two things:
1.
The he has done the training that he needs to be on the mountain
and,
2.
The he is living his life to the fullest and is not holding
anything back.
He
hopes that his preparations and struggles will be an inspiration
to others to reach their own goals. He asks, "What is
your Aconcagua? What is your big goal in life. Think about
it and use the answer to get yourself motivated, day to day."
Guess
I have somthing to think about! How about you.
No
Worries
Today
was a scheduled rest day for the team at 19,000-foot Camp
1. While I did not hear from Marshall and was not able to
listen to an audio post on the The
Ferris FIles, I'm sure the team had a restful, if anxious,
day thinking of their move to Camp 2 tomorrow and following
summit attempt.
Also,
"no worries" if you don't hear anything from David
on The Ferris Files or you don't see a daily update here for
a couple of days. David's friend, Steve, who has so kindly
been retrieving David's messages and posting them on The Ferris
Files posted today that he will be in Tahoe until Monday,
January 22, and thus he's not sure when he will have a chance
to update the posts.
So,
in the meantime, please keep Team Stray Dogs in your thoughts
and prayers as they move to Camp 2 tomorrow and, weather permitting,
make a summit attempt on Monday, January 22.
I
will update this site again as soon as I hear any news. THANK
YOU so much for following along while Marshall leads the Stray
Dogs on their climb of Aconcagua! We are very grateful for
your interest, thoughts, and prayers.
I
obtained information for this post from an audio posting by
David on The
Ferris FIles. My sincere
thanks to David for making these posts which have been key
to keeping us all informed about the progress of the Stray
Dogs climb of Aconcagua.
As
planned (the storm must have stopped, although David did not
give any specifics about the weather) today the team made
a carry to Camp 2 at 19,000 feet. They carried 40 to 50 pound
packs containing crampons, ice axes, very warm clothing, and
food that they will need at Camp 2 and for their summit attempt.
Except for Marshall, who has climbed Mount Everest (29,035
feet), as well as Aconcagua (22,841 feet) and Denali (20,320
feet), this carry approached the highest that the rest of
members (David, Frank, Louise, Terri, and Nancy; and Fabris
and Demetri) have ever climbed, as each of them has reached
the summit of Kilimanjaro at 19,340 feet. The big difference
is: on summit day on Kilimanjaro, you only have to carry a
small day pack with food, water, camera, and extra clothing
for yourself; enough to keep you going for the day. Just a
few pounds – not 40 to 50 pounds! In addition, the group did
the round trip in about 6.5 hours which is very impressive
considering the fact that David reported that sometimes just
the trip up to Camp 2 can take 6 to 7 hours!
Yet another testament to the strength of the members of Team
Stray Dogs.
So,
it is no surprise (to me, at least) that David said that he
“expected it to be hard, but not this hard.” He felt that,
for some reason, his "lungs just are not adapting to
the altitude as quickly as others in the group," and
felt like he was taking three breaths for everyone else's
two. He found it very frustrating that he was the last one
to arrive at Camp 2, as on other days he was typically the
first one to arrive at the new, and higher, camps. David said
that this carry was “one of the hardest things I have ever
done.” And rightly so, David!
Certainly
David should be proud of himself, keeping up with the rest
of the Dogs and local guides, carrying a 50 pound pack up
to 19,000 feet, turning around and returning to Camp 1 at
16,240 feet… making the entire round trip in the same amount
of time it takes most other climbers just to go up. No wonder
it was difficult! David said that he “trained diligently for
this trip” and quite obviously that's true! “Good show” all!!
After
returning to Camp 1 and getting some rest and food, David
felt “confident that I will make it to Camp 2 and the summit,
although I may need to move more slowly than I had planned.”
Tomorrow,
the 20th will be a rest day at Camp 1 then, if the weather
holds, the team will move to Camp 2 on the 21st, and should
may their summit attempt on the 22nd. Of course, that's
if the weather holds. As Marshall reported on the
17th, weather permitting, he fully expects a successful summit
for all. Certainly it is a strong and capable group!
Good
weather... and safe climbing!
David
provided an audio posting on The
Ferris FIles about
the team's move to Camp 1 today.
It
started out as a beautiful, sunny, warm day with a cloudless
blue sky at base camp as they packed and prepared to move
up to Camp 1. The surrounding mountains gleamed with the freshly
fallen snow from the previous evening. Before leaving, the
were surprised to hear a helicopter that was bringing someone
up to base camp and ferrying someone, as well as trash collected
by the rangers, off the mountain.
As
they started out, David led the way setting a slow steady
pace. Today they could see the vast buttes at the base of
the Polish Glacier, and watched the snow melt as the warmth
moved up the valley – quite a contract to two days ago when
they did the carry to Camp 1 while the snow fell.
After
they arrived at the 16,240-foot camp, the weather changed,
marking what Dave called, “a new phase of our climb” – a colder
and windier phase. When David called he and Terri were inside
their three-person tent with all of their belongings. David
said the “walls are trembling from the wind while snowflakes
are crackling against the rain fly” and they could hear an
occasional roll of thunder. A thunder-snow storm.
David
thought is was about 25°F outside, but said that despite
wearing fleece gloves, fleece hat, two layers of clothing
top and bottom, and having his legs in his sleeping bag with
a hot water bottle in between, he still felt cold. He said
he “always wondered what it would be like to be in a tent
on a mountain in a storm,” and, now he knows. Hmmmm… think
he's still enjoying himself?
Seriously,
the team is safe and (relatively) warm, and David reported
that he has two books, an I-Pod, photos of his girlfriend
and, of course, his tent-mate Terri to keep him keep him company
while they wait out the storm. May it pass quickly and good
weather follow.
Tomorrow,
weather permitting, the group will do a carry to 19,000-foot
Camp 2, then return to Camp 1 to sleep.
I
can only hope that the zipper on Marshall 's tent is working.
Why? Because I remember him writing from Everest about zippers.
Here's what he had to say:
Zippers...they
can be a thing of beauty or an item to be cursed. It seems
that the focus of one's life can be diverted from the things
that are important and reduced to everyday things that we
need to survive.
For
instance, as I mentioned to my wife, some of the hardest things
about climbing Mount Everest are dealing with the boredom
of just waiting for good weather, hoping for good health,
or coping with a lack of sleep. But by far the hardest part
is being away from my loved ones and dealing with the frustration
of not being able to contact them for long periods of time.
And then, just when I think that I am going to drive myself
crazy obsessing about this whole situation, I climb out of
my tent and, like clockwork, the zipper sticks.
Maybe
there is a reason for that zipper sticking. Perhaps to bring
me back to the reality of where I am, remind me of the comforts
of home, and ensure that I remain focused and have safe passage.
The safe passage to enable me to return home to the most important
things: my wife and children. Nothing else really matters
in the whole scheme of things. I am blessed with my wife and
children…those children will be the legacy that I leave. It
will not be the accomplishments, such as climbing Mount Everest
, that I leave behind which will be remarkable; it will be
my family.
So,
today as I sit writing, I am thinking of Alex and the other
four members of our team who are headed down from ABC to join
the rest of us at BC to wait out the raging wind on Everest.
I am also thinking about the fact that three of the tents
were destroyed at ABC over the last two days. Those are all
things that can be fixed. Even more so, I am thinking about
my family. About those who are dearest to me. I am hoping
that that all is well with them and wishing that they are
able to bear the upcoming storms—and jammed zippers—in their
lives.
May
you all stay safe and warm... and have zippers that work.
Route
Map
Thanks
to David for posting this map of their route on the The
Ferris FIles.
The
Polish Glacier Traverse Route up Aconcagua from base camp
at Plaza Argentina.
(see
the map of the approach route in the January 14th posting)
Rich's
Announcement
At
breakfast, before departing for Camp 1 and the summit attempt,
Rich Shear made the announcement to the group that he will
be heading down. David said in his audio post that Rich is
"homesick" and ready to go back to Wellsville, NY
to his family and friends. Those who are dearest to him.
David said that the group listened with great regret as, "Rich
brought a huge heart and a sense of humor to every day with
us. We will miss his... down home stories and his harmonica.
Rich, we already miss you."
Rich
will travel down the mountain by mule tomorrow and will catch
an early flight back to the States... and home. Safe travels,
Rich!
Once
again I heard briefly from Marshall and also listened to audio
postings from both Marshall and David on The
Ferris FIles.
During
their rest day at base camp the weather was snowy but pleasant,
with temperatures ranging from the 40s to 55° F. Marshall
reported that Team Stray Dogs is “healthy, fit, and very well
matched.” He said that everybody gets along and that, physically,
everyone moves at about the same pace and is doing well. So,
weather permitting, he fully expects a successful summit for
all.
Marshall
passed along a special hello to his three children, Elaine,
Taylor, and Ali ; and a kind and loving greeting to me as
well. He thanked everyone at home that has supported him throughout
the years. He knows how fortunate he is to have been able
to travel all over the world and meet such wonderful people,
and to call them friends. He expressed his sincere gratitude
for such wonderful friends, such as those he's currently climbing
with “on this beautiful and lofty mountain named Aconcagua,”
saying that he thinks of all of you as his extended family.
He closed by saying “I love and cherish you all and thank
you for checking in on the progress of our climb.”
David
said that yesterday, during their carry to Camp 1, they got
a view back down to the rubble strewn base camp, with 50 yellow
and orange tents strewn about. In addition, there are long
white and blue mess tents for the various outfitters on the
mountain, and two permanent buildings: one for the doctor
and one that serves as the ranger station. He said that base
camp is actually quite comfortable, noting that you can buy
satellite phone time if you're not fortunate enough to have
your own (as he does, and we are all grateful for his audio
postings!), that each outfitter has their own (locked) latrines,
and that you can even buy a shower for ten dollars – and that
several members of Team Stray Dogs took advantage of that
luxury. David said that the meals have been incredible and
that the cook tents are a source of continuing music selected
by the cooks and guides. He said the Stray Dogs have been
enjoying the time to gather together in the large mess tent,
passing the time drinking tea and playing cards.
Tomorrow
the group will move to Camp 1 and they will be limited to
individual tents. On the 19th they are scheduled to make a
carry to Camp 2, then return to Camp 1 to sleep. The 20th
is a scheduled rest day at Camp 1, with the move to Camp 2
scheduled for the 21st. Weather permitting, the Stray Dogs
should summit Aconcagua, the highest peak in South America,
on January 22 (or 23/24), 2007. We wish them all safe climbing!
I
heard from Marshall today via satellite phone. Marshall told
that in a couple of days, there will be a change in the Stray
Dogs group. Rich Shear decided that spending two weeks on
a mountain was just not for him. He was feeling fine, and
thus his decision was not based on health or any problems,
but simply a personal (and sensible? ;-} choice. Marshall
and I discussed how proud we were of Rich for being so aware
of his personal desires and making the right decision for
him. Of course, Marshall will miss Rich, including his Mick
Jagger impressions (that's another story), but he understood
and respected Rich's decision, which he will announce to the
group before they depart for the summit push.
The
rest of the group made the carry to Camp 1 and returned safely
to base camp in only 6.5 hours – much less than the anticipated
8 hours, which attests to the group's strength. The weather
was snowy, but calm, so traveling was safe and tolerable.
Marshall said that the route traveled through pentitenties
(ice formations that look like “praying hands”) and was breathtakingly
beautiful. He said that he had a slight headache when they
reached 16,200-foot Camp 1, but it wasn't serious and, in
fact, is very typical. A bit more water and the hike back
to base camp and he was fine. Marshall also reported that
the Stray Dogs had their blood oxygen levels tested, with
Louise topping the group with an O2 level of 94. Marshall
was a close second with 92, and the rest of the group came
in around 85; all acceptable given their altitude and is an
indication that their bodies are starting to adjust, or acclimate,
to the higer altitude.
David
also had an audio posting on The
Ferris FIles describing
the carry and their first encounter “up close and personal”
with the pentitenties, which reached up to 10 feet tall. While
they are beautiful, he said that they can be difficult to
maneuver and climb through, especially with a 50 pound pack!
Now, of course, David didn't have 50 pounds of personal gear;
but he had some of his gear (crampons, ice ax, and some of
his warmest clothes) plus about 20 pounds of group gear and
food. Remember, they are moving up to Camp 1 for three days,
plus one day at Camp 2, and a summit day (and two contingency
days for a summit attempt). That's a lot of gear and food
for eight climbers plus guides.
In addition to their packs and maneuvering
through the pentitenties, the route was steep and David said
they were “breathing like steam locomotives.” After hiking up
through the snow, they dropped their gear at Camp 1 and “scooted
back down” to base camp in time for dinner.
After
posting the information below based on the audio posting by
Rich Shear, David did another audio posting to The
Ferris FIles. He reported
that the weather today started out sunny and warm – almost
60 ° F at 13,700 feet! By 6 p.m. clouds had rolled and
by 8 p.m. it was snowing. David also discussed preparing to
do the carry to Camp 1 tomorrow, sorting through his gear
to take his crampons, ice ax, and warmest clothes with him
to Camp 1. He also explained the importance of this carry
in the acclimation process (getting used to higher altitude)
and the need to carry, or ferry, not only individual gear
but group gear and food to the next highest camp in more than
one single load.
David
reported that the Stray Dog clients felt some anxiety when
they talked to another group that had just returned from high
on the mountain, but were unable to summit due to cold weather.
The group reported that temperatures had been about -10°
F and that they encountered problems with their water bottles
freezing even inside their tents.
Hmmm…
makes me wonder if they had their water bottles properly insulated,
and if they kept their water bottles inside their sleeping
bags, especially at night while sleeping. Certainly Marshall
faced temperatures this cold on Everest, and much colder on
Mount Vinson in Antarctica, yet he was able to keep his water
(and his quart of Red Bull for summit day on Everest!) from
freezing. Being prepared and taking all necessary precautions
are certainly necessary on every mountain. Of course, that
doesn't eliminate all problems, but it can certainly go a
long way.
But,
I digress. David noted that they thought it might take 8 hours
to do the carry to Camp 1 tomorrow, and wondered if he was
ready. I'm sure he and the other Stray Dogs are ready, prepared,
fit, and healthy to continue their climb of Aconcagua!
Information
for this posting was obtained from an audio posting by Rich
Shear on David's
site.
Today
was a scheduled rest day at Camp Argentina, although Rich
described it as a bit of an "anxious day" after
they were instructed at breakfast to sort through their gear
to determine what to leave and base camp, and what should
be carried tomorrow up to Camp 1. Rich explained that this
is really only his second excursion into the mountains, having
been a part of Marshall's group to the Mexican Volcanoes in
October 2005. I'm sure Marshall, the other guides, and some
of the more experienced members of the group helped him -
and each other - out with every decision.
Often
times being in such groups reminds me of women in the kitchen
(guys, maybe for you it would be like being the garage changing
the oil in the car?). If you are alone in
the kitchen (or the garage) you know exactly what to do -
how long to put the turkey in the oven, how much corn starch
to put in the gravy, and how to tell when the pie in done.
However, if there is another woman in the kitchen with you
(oh, goodness, especially your mom!) you start to doubt yourself
(or just want reassurance?) and ask, "How long does the
turkey have to stay in, again... and to what temperature?"
Or, "Does this pie look done to you?"
Same
thing on mountains. You may "know" what clothes
to wear and to take along in case of changing
weather, but you'll probably ask someone else if you're making
the right decisions... just in case. Of course, this is not
a bad thing to do. Especially at altitude, when oxygen to
those brain cells is not ideal. A double check on decisions
is a very good thing on any mountain!
Of
course... I'm not sure about the kitchen, as maybe there "too
many cooks do spoil the broth?"
Anyway,
back to the mountain! I can picture the team, everyone next
to their tents, with backpacks and equipment strewn about,
asking each other, "Are you taking your ice ax up tomorrow,
or are you going to wait until we actually move to Camp 1
on Thursday?" Or, "Are you taking your long underwear
up, or leaving them here, just in case it gets cold?"
Tomorrow
the team will make the carry - with all of the right equipment,
I know - to Camp 1, then return to base camp to sleep.
Much
of the information for this posting was obtained from an audio
posting on David's
site. Today the group moved from 10,500-foot Casa de Piedra
to base camp, Camp Argentina, at 12,700 feet.
The
general information for the climb says that this is the hardest
day of the approach, starting with by crossing River Vacas
followed by a 6 to 7 hour hike. Aconcagua Adventures maintains
permanent base camp facilities at Camp Argentina, including
a dining tent and toilet tent (very luxurious, I'm sure).
In addition to a base camp manager there is also a doctor
and a ermanent satellite phone. I believe the mules
do not climb any higher than base camp, and thus the guides
will organize the campsite and the equipment left by the mules.
The
group will spend a total of 4 days at the base camp for proper
acclimatization and rest. During the “rest day” tomorrow,
Marshall and the guides will instruct the group on crampon
use, self-arrest, and roped glacier travel. The next day,
they will make a carry to 16,240-foot Camp 1, returning to
base camp the same day in order to “climb high, sleep low.”
An exploratory trek of the surrounding area is also planned.
The last day at base camp prior to the climb, Marshall and
the local guides will look through everyone's personal equipment,
which should average about 24 pounds total, and suggest what
can be left behind to lighten their load. From base camp to
Camp 1 and Camp 2, climbers will carry personal equipment
plus their sleeping tent. Climbers will only carry a summit
pack (enough for the day) for the summit attempt.
David
reported that it was a “good, hard hike” that it definitely
got his attention and that he could feel it in his legs. It
did take the anticipated 6 to 7hours, and David said that
he and some other members of the group arrived feeling tired
and had a bit of a headache. However, after “dinner, good
conversation, and a little bit of wine” everyone was feeling
pretty good. I spoke very briefly to Marshall after dinner,
and he reported that everyone was doing well.
David
described base camp a desolate landscape devoid of plant life
(with the last plant life about 500 feet below) with tents
scattered among a field of stones and boulders. The camp is
surrounded by gray and red jagged ridges creating “quite a
singular and memorable scene.”
I
wonder if the group has been lucky enough to see any guanacos,
a big mammal similar to llamas, or the king of the Andes,
the condor?
Approach
Route Map
Thanks
to David for posting this map of the approach route | 
